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Martijn Katan, who would later publish research on the problems with trans fatty acids. It was at this time that articles extolling the virtues of olive oil began to appear in the popular press. Promotion of olive oil, which had a long history of use, seemed more scientifically sound to the health-conscious consumer than the promotion of corn and soy oil, which could only be extracted with modern stainless steel presses. The problem for the industry was that there was not enough olive oil in the world to meet its needs. And, like butter and other traditional fats, olive oil was too expensive to use in most processed foods. The industry needed a less expensive monounsaturated oil. Rapeseed oil was a monounsaturated oil that had been used extensively in many parts of the world, notably in China, Japan and India. It contains almost 60 per cent monounsaturated fatty acids (compared to about 70 per cent in olive oil). Unfortunately, about two-thirds of the monounsaturated fatty acids in rapeseed oil are erucic acid, a 22-carbon monounsaturated fatty acid that had been associated with Keshan's disease, characterised by fibrotic lesions of the heart. In the late 1970s, using a technique of genetic manipulation involving seed splitting? Canadian plant breeders came up with a variety of rapeseed that produced a monounsaturated oil that was low in 22-carbon erucic acid and high in 18-carbon oleic acid. The new oil—referred to as LEAR oil, for Low Erucic Acid Rapeseed—was slow to catch on in the US. In 1986, Cargill announced the sale of LEAR oilseed to US farmers and provided LEAR oil processing at its Riverside, North Dakota, plant, but prices dropped and farmers took a hit.’ "LEAR" could be expected to invoke a healthy image for the new "Cinderella" crop. In 1978, the industry settled on "canola", for "Canadian oil", since most of the new rapeseed at that time was grown in Canada. "Canola" also sounded like "can do" and "payola'"—both positive phrases in marketing lingo. However, the new name did not come into widespread use until the early 1990s. An initial challenge for the Canola Council of Canada was the fact that rapeseed had never been given GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe) status by the US Food and Drug Administration. A change in regulation would be necessary before canola could be marketed in the US.‘ Just how this was done has not been revealed, but GRAS status was granted in 1985—for which, it is rumoured, the Canadian government spent US$50 million to obtain. Since canola was aimed at the growing numbers of health- conscious consumers rather than the junk food market, it required more subtle marketing techniques than television advertising. The industry had managed to manipulate the science to make a perfect match with canola oil—very low in saturated fat and rich in monounsaturates. In addition, canola oil contains about 10 per cent omega-3 fatty acids—the most recent discovery of establishment nutritionists. Most Americans are deficient in omega-3 fatty acids, which had been shown to be beneficial to the heart and immune system. The challenge was to market this dream-come-true fatty acid profile in a way that would appeal to educated consumers. Canola oil began to appear in the recipes of cutting-edge health books, such as those by Andrew Weil and Barry Sears. The tech- nique was to extol the virtues of the Mediterranean diet and olive oil in the text, and then call for "olive oil or canola oil" in the recipes. One informant in the publishing industry told us that MARKETING LEAR OIL Before LEAR oil could be promoted as a healthy alternative to polyunsaturated oils, it needed a new name. Neither "rape" nor THE LOW-DOWN ON FATTY ACIDS SATURATED FATTY ACIDS are chains of carbon atoms that have hydrogen filling every bond. In foods, they normally range in length from four to 22 carbons. Because of their straight configuration, saturated fatty acids pack together easily and tend to be solid at room temperature. Butter, tallow, suet, palm oil and coconut oil are classified as saturated fats because they contain a preponderance of sat- urated fatty acids. Saturated fats are stable and do not become rancid when subjected to heat, as in cooking. MONOUNSATURATED FATTY ACIDS are chains of carbon atoms that have one double bond between two carbons and therefore lack two hydrogens. Normally they range from 16 to 22 carbons. They have a kink or bend at the position of the double bond, so the molecules do not pack together as easily as in saturated fatty acids. Monounsaturated oils tend to be liquid at room temperature but become solid when refrigerated. Olive oil, peanut oil, lard, rapeseed and canola oils are classified as monounsaturated oils. The most common monoun- saturated fatty acids are palmitoleic (16 carbons), oleic (18 carbons) and erucic (22 carbons). Monounsaturated oils are rel- atively stable and can be used for cooking. POLYUNSATURATED FATTY ACIDS have two or more double bonds. As there is a bend or kink at each double bond, these fatty acids do not pack together easily and tend to be liquid, even when cold. Polyunsaturated oils are very fragile. They tend to develop harmful free radicals when subjected to heat and oxygen, as in cooking or processing. Soybean oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil and flax oil are polyunsaturated oils. Omega-6 fatty acids have the first double-bond at the sixth carbon from the end of the fatty acid chain. The most com- mon omega-6 fatty acid is linoleic acid, which is called an essential fatty acid (EFA) because your body cannot make it. Omega-3 fatty acids have the first double bond at the third carbon. The most common omega-3 fatty acid is the EFA alpha- linolenic acid. The consensus among lipid experts is that the American diet is too high in omega-6 fatty acids (present in high amounts in commercial vegetable oils) and lacking in omega-3 fatty acids (which are present in organ meats, wild fish, pasteurised egg yolks, organic vegetables and flax oil). A surfeit of omega-6 fatty acids and deficiency in omega-3 fatty acids has been shown to depress immune system function, contribute to weight gain and cause inflammation. 32 = NEXUS THE LOW-DOWN ON FATTY ACIDS www.nexusmagazine.com AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2002