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with round-nosed pliers (or multigrips)
over the insulator. Then insert the other
two rubbers in sequence. The setting need
not be perfect as it can be adjusted after the
three rubbers are fitted to the opposite end.
But do the spacing adjustment, if neces-
sary, before fitting the next outer cylinder.
If you don't, you may have to do the job all
over again. Make sure that, when finished,
all of the cylinders sit flat on a level surface
without any one cylinder protruding above
the others. If you are not careful about this
oint, the energy-multiplying factor may
miss the lower plates (cylinders) entirely,
thus reducing cell efficiency.
If your cathode terminal bolt has been
fitted correctly, then the entire assembly
can be supported by the locking nuts on the
cathode terminal bolt. However, if you feel
that your plate assembly requires some
additional support, a slot can be cut into the
ottom of three more rubber stoppers.
These stoppers (correctly spaced) can then
e fitted to the bottom of the outer neutral
cylinder to act as supporting stand-offs
inside the anode casing. An insulating
sleeve should be inserted into the hole
drilled in the anode through which the bolt
asses, and insulating washers also fitted
either side of the hole. Seal the hole with
white marine-grade Sikaflex.
All metal parts, except for the energy
transfer tube, should be made of food-grade
stainless steel and must be diamagnetic.
Grade 316 is the most appropriate stainless
steel to use. Make sure you test it for para-
magnetic properties before you buy it. It
must not attract a ferrite magnet or deflect a
compass needle even slightly, or you are charge the cell. It would then have to be
just wasting your time and money. All cleaned and filled with freshly charged
stainless grades show some attraction if water or recharged from the battery,
neodymium magnets are used. although just recharging may not suffice.
I am uncertain which vehicles the three- Joe no longer recommends recharging the
neutral-plate system was fitted to, or how cell from the battery, as the cell may
each vehicle performed. What Ido know become contaminated and may not work at
from Joe is that over the last few years he all until it has been cleaned and regenerat-
has successfully converted a number of ed. The Mark I cell that was recharged by
common vehicles such as Fords and _ the car battery consists of only the anode
Holdens. After the Leyland, he experi- and cathode. There are no neutral plates or
mented with solid supply tubes to transfer _ separators (insulators) to cause problems
the energy from the cell to the carburettor. through contamination or shorts.
He also abandoned any further attempts to As the transfer tube has a positive charge
connect the cell directly to the input mani- and carries the energy field to the motor, it
fold, preferring instead to locate the end of is most important that the cell not be locat-
the transfer tube on a sealed blank fitting ed near any other field generators such as
on the carburettor housing. However, as distributor coil, cut-out points, alternator,
there may still be some danger of pressure _ electronic circuitry or high-tension leads.
building up within the cell, Joe said it is a The transfer tube must also be well insulat-
good idea just to slide the end of the outlet ed from the car body.
hose over the blank fitting without securing Joe recommends that the cell be either
the end of the hose with a pressure clip or located on the floor next to the driver (with
sealing compound. the cathode bolt electrically connected to
In the early stages Joe replaced the clear the car chassis) or placed in the boot away
plastic tubing from the cell to the carburet- from electrical wiring. If the cell is located
tor with a length of copper pipe, but dis- in the boot, the entire length of the transfer
covered that the copper corroded at the cell tube should be insulated with a plastic tub-
end. Eventually he settled for an alumini- ing sheath to avoid contact with the nega-
um pipe of approximately 3/4-inch diame- tively charged body. If placed next to the
ter. The pipe is screwed to the top of the driver, the transfer tube should be passed
cell's outlet connection (metal to metal). through a hole in the firewall fitted with a
The furthest end of the pipe (nearest the suitable rubber insulating grommet.
carburettor) is cut short about four inches, By a process of experimentation, Joe
and a good-quality rubber hose fitted to the found that a two-neutral-plate cell worked
end of the pipe to make up the last four —_just as well in a car as did the three-neutral-
inches to the carburettor blank. plate system, and maybe even better.
According to Joe, aluminium is the best However, the two-neutral-plate system
material for convey- required that the water first be charged in
ing the energy to another charging cell for the system to
the engine as itdoes work effectively. By pre-charging the
~ ? not corrode as a_ water in his vat system, he was able to
SD result of cell action. carry out the process much more efficiently
The rubber at the _ than if he used the actual car cell to effect
end of the tube the charging process. It is for this reason
insulates the cell that Joe uses only two neutral plates in his
body from the car most recent car cells. oo
block.
Joe states that Editor's Note:
although the cell Additional details are covered in Barry
has no electrical Hilton's 40-page book, The Joe
(closed circuit) con- Phenomenon: How to Run Your Car on
nection to the bat- Zero Point Energy. Copies are available
tery, the cell body from the publisher, NuTech 2000, PO
has a_ positive Box 255, Ivanhoe, Vic. 3079, Australia;
charge which, if telephone/fax +61 (0)3 9457 2814, e-
allowed to make mail,