Nexus - 0103 - New Times Magazine-pages

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hanging rocks, while hundreds of feet be- On the way back we encounter some men carrying a framework of poplar wood onto which has been tied inflated goatskins and some tractor tubes. Accepting thelr offer of a more lelsurely trip back to Khapalu, we accompany them back up the track unfil a suitable spot Is found. There, after giving the goatskins a few extra puffs of alr, we manhandle the craft down a steep embankment of boulders to the water’s edge. The raft, or ziak, is not made to be steered so the ‘zlakban’ use long poles to push us out Into the current, ward- ing the heavily laden, half sub- merged craft away from any sand- banks. Their local knowledge of the wide river takes us to a small nursery on the far bank. After some passengers allght, we recross the swirling grey waters back to Khapalu. The following day a govern- ment officer offers to send us back to Skardu by way of hls home vil- tage of Michulo. After another river crossing by zilak, the non-arrival of our jeep requires that we walk to ventilated’ Pakistani bus scrapes on over- low us crashes the hidden valleys - Baltistan Nexus New Times Three